tutorial

Is your sleeve fitting too tight around your arm?

Then you’ll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I’ll be showing you how to add extra cm’s to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let’s get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement. This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit. Then you’ll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side. Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 –

Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve. This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 –

Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).

In this case Brookes’ arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 – 32.5 = 3.5. You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm.

Step 3 –

All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4″ to give it a better curve (green line). Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done. But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl – meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check the fit.

I hope this has helped you with your Sleeve Width Adjustment. But, if you have questions pop over to my fb group and get more help.

Till next time – Happy Sewing!

I love sewing the back neck facing for an invisible zip. It’s so easy and so straight forward AND it looks professional! That’s because this is the way it’s done in the industry.

Step 1 –

Make sure you’ve installed your invisible zip as shown in my tutorial – HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE ZIP.

Step 2 –

Fold the back neck facing to the front making sure it’s right side of fabric together.

Step 3 –

Pin the edge of the facing to the edge of the CB seam. You’ll have the zip sandwiched in between.

Step 4 –

With your regular sewing foot sew down the facing edge.

Step 5 –

You’ll notice that there is more fabric on the back neck than the facing. This is because you are going to fold the CB seam toward yourself and to the left.