1 PUDDLE LANE

pdf patterns for the savvy seamstress

Introducing the MiSS AUDREY DRESS – PDF Pattern!

This beautiful new pattern has been a labour of love for quite a few months and I’m proud to say that I’m letting my baby free to help ladies around the world look and feel fabulous.


The Miss Audrey Dress – PDF pattern is a fantastic and comfortable little dress for summer parties, lunch with the gals, off to the Races or to take you to work. It’s very versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion!


The Pattern Features:

  • A fitted Panelled Bodice
  • A – DD cup sizing
  • Back invisible zip
  • In-Seam pockets
  • Lined or Unlined Options
  • Gathered or Pleated Options
  • Sizes 6 – 20



The Fabulous fabrics you can work with include:
  • Satin
  • Silk
  • Brocade
  • Silk/Cotton
  • Voile
  • Georgette
  • Organza
  • Cotton Lace
  • Lace fabrics
  • Wool
  • Linen
  • Linen Blends
  • the choices are endless!
I have a lot coming up over the next few weeks so keep reading so you don’t miss out on anything!

Firstly, I will be doing a Blog Tour over the next few days with my gorgeous and very talented pattern Testers.  They have been so kind to talk about their experiences about being a Tester for me.  So support them and comment how beautiful they look in their new Miss Audrey Dress.  They’ve all done a fantastic job.

Wednesday, 26th Nov (today)
Abbie Daniels – Tigerlily Patterns

Thursday, 27th Nov
Debbie Cameron – Stitch It Now
Stacey Clements – All Sewn Up by Stacey

Friday, 28th Nov
Audrey Bottine – Pretty Precious Clothing
Lesley Fletcher – Cherub’s Kiss


Saturday, 29th Nov
Natalie Williams – Sew Outnumbered
Leanne Benson – TBA

Secondly, I’m starting a SEW-A-LONG to help you make your dress.  It will start on Monday 1st December so you should have a gorgeous new dress in time for Christmas – with my help. 

Here’s how the SEW-A-LONG will be run:

  • All the step-by-step instructions will be delivered to your inbox every 2 – 3 days.
  • The step-by-step instructions include:  how to make a Calico Toile (fancy name for a sample) bodice to fit your shape, how to then fix your pattern pieces so that you have a pattern that will always fit YOU, I’ll show you how to sew in an invisible zip and I have a few industry tricks of the trade to help you along.
  • I will have a facebook group for you to join also so that you will get help from me and support from other beautiful ladies in the group.
  • And also we get to show off our lovely creations when we’ve finished.
It’s going to be fun so come and join in.  Enter your details below so you can receive all the great instructions and information starting Monday 1st December.

Join the Sew-A-Long!

* indicates required

And, lastly:


“You don’t have time to buy all the supplies you need for the Sew-A-Long” I hear you say.

“I can’t find any beautiful fabrics for what I’m wanting”

Does this sound familiar?  Well I’m here to help.  I’ll be selling Fabric Kits as well.  I’ll be putting more up on my website in the coming days so keep an eye out for them.

I have beautiful Linens, Cottons, Voiles and I’m even getting my hands on some TO-DIE-FOR Silk for that  very special occasion.


In the Fabric Kit you’ll receive:

  • The Miss Audrey Dress – PDF pattern (it will be emailed to you)
  • 3m of beautiful fabric
  • matching zip
  • 4 reels of matching thread – 1 for your sewing machine and 3 for your overlocker
  • Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
All this plus EXPRESS postage for – $80 (Aus only). That is truly amazing value.  So don’t miss out as I only have 1 of each Fabric Kit.

And and extra special BONUS because you read my blog right to the end.  IF you are on my email list you will receive an extra 20% for today ONLY. But it’s only available on the pattern and not the Fabric Kits. So hop to it and get on my list to get the discount.



Sway Back Adjustment

The Sway Back issue happens when there is too much excess fabric at the back around the waistline but the front fits ok.  So you need to get rid of the excess out of your pattern so that it sits better at the back. 

As I’ve stated in my other tutorials on Altering your Pattern you must sew up a Toile/Muslin of your pattern first so that you can fix all the fitting problems that are happening so that you don’t get discouraged and end up throwing your garment in the corner never to be seen again.  I know I’ve been there!
 
 

This back bodice is too long and too wide but for this tutorial I’ll just be showing you how to take the excess out at the lower back  or Sway Back Alteration.


Step 1

  • Pin the excess out from the CB to the side seam.  It will end up looking like a dart.
  • If you find you need to take the excess out right round to the front then it’s not a Sway Back problem it’s just a Front and Back Length problem ie. The Front and Back length is too long for your body.

 

Step 2 

Transfer that measurement to your pattern.  It should end up looking like a dart.

Step 3

Fold the dart in and secure with tape.

Step 4

Draw a line down the back seam.

Step 5

  • Cut away the excess and transfer that to the side seam.
  • Redraw the back seam line.
 
Step 6
  • Redraw the back dart.
  • To do this measure from the top of the dart to the CB seam.
  • That measurement should be the same for the centre of dart at the bottom.
  • Mark in the centre of the dart and draw the new dart lines in either side.
 
That’s it you are done.  The Sway Back pattern alteration has now been fixed.  
 

Gaping Neckline Adjustment

 
A gaping neckline can be a real pain in your finished dress.  So here is how you can fix it:
 
Before you start sewing your pattern you must do this important step –
MAKE A TOILE/MUSLIN FIRST of the bodice or dress to nut out any fitting problems.  That way there will be no tears at the end and another outfit thrown in the corner because it doesn’t fit.
 
Ok, so you’ve made your Toile – now is the time to try it on and see what fitting problems you have with your pattern.
 

 
The problem I see for this Toile is the gaping front neckline and also the fitting at the bust.  But for this lesson I’ll just address the gaping front neckline.
 
All a gaping neckline means is that the across chest is too big for you.  So the across chest needs to be taken in.
 
 

Step 1 

pin in the excess fabric at the neckline making sure that you continue this down to nothing.  It will end up looking like a dart and it should finish around just above the bust.  If it goes lower than the bust almost to the waist – then your problem is that you have chosen a size too big for you.

Step 2

  • Now to transfer that amount of excess to your pattern.
  • Measure down to the point where the excess fabric dart finishes.
  • Mark that on your pattern and square a line out to finish at the seam.
 

Step 3

  • Now draw a line up to the neckline – say half way between the CF and the shoulder.
  • Measure how much needs to be taken out of the pattern and halve it.
  • Mark that amount on the pattern to the right of the first line at the neckline and draw a line back down to the first point.
 

Step 4

  • Now fold the dart in and secure with tape.  This is the time now to redraw the neckline if it needs it.
  • The same amount of excess needs to also be taken out of the front neck facing.

And that’s it ladies – I hope this has helped one aspect of making an outfit fit your properly.  And now you are ready to make a gorgeous new outfit for yourself.

Sewing on Binding – Part 3

Now that we’ve sewn on 2 different bias bindings that you use for armholes, necklines and anything that has a curved edge we are now going to do a binding edge that is more just for decorative reasons.  It’s a contrast binding around a hem of a dress, top, sleeve, collar etc.  If you missed out on Part 1 and 2 from the last two weeks click here:  Part 1 and Part 2.

This is how I’ve done the binding edges on my dress hems for  Audrey Lane dresses.  It’s quick, easy and finishes the hem off just nicely.

Ok, let’s get started!
Cut your binding piece the width of the fabric x 3.2cm/1 1/4″ 
DON’T CUT ON THE BIAS THIS TIME.

With the right side of the binding place it onto the wrong side of your garment.  Pin and sew 6mm/1/4″ in from the edge.

Turn your garment over to the right side and fold the binding in to meet the edge of the garment.  Iron the binding flat.

Fold over again and pin.  
Make sure you cover up the stitching underneath.

Stitch the binding down on the inside edge.

Here’s the finished project……or you can take it one step further…

Make another row of stitching on the outside edge of the binding.  
I always do this with my sewing projects as it gives the binding a crisper finish and looks great!

And that’s it EASY, PEASY…… bindings are a great way to introduce contrast and interest to your garment.

Next week we are tackling another type of binding that is great for armholes and necklines!



Sewing on Binding – Part 5

Today I’m going to show you how to sew your bias binding around curves.  This is really great if you have a scalloped hemline on a top, skirt, sleeves or want a decorative edge on tea towels, cushions and other craft items.

This is the last sewing tip in my 5 Part series on sewing bindings.  If you want to view the other 4 posts please click on the links below:


So let’s get started!

Cut your binding on the bias (the same way I demonstrated in Parts 1 and 2) 3.2cm /1 1/4″wide.

Sew your bias pieces together.  Cut away the corners and then iron.
Get your scalloped piece of fabric ready….

With the right side of the bias piece next to the wrong side of the scalloped piece sew a seam 6mm/1/4″ in from the edge.

Continue sewing till you get to the inner curve point of the scalloped edge.  With the needle still in the fabric lift the foot up and pivot the foot to be in line with the outer curve.  Continue sewing like this to the end.

This is how the first stage of sewing on your bias piece will look.  

Turn the scalloped piece of fabric over to the right side and fold the bias piece over twice and pin down making sure you are covering the previous stitching.

Stitch the bias piece down sewing on the inside edge.  When you get to the inner curve point make sure the needle is in the fabric before you lift the foot and turn to be in line with the outer curve. Continue sewing like this to the end. 

Voila! you are done!  You’ve just finished adding a bias binding trim to a curved edge.  Now go and create some more!

I hope you enjoyed this 5 Part series on attaching different bias bindings.  If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to email me and I can help you out.

I’ll be putting more tutorials together in the future but if there is something you would like to know ‘how to do’ please let me know in the comments below or by email and I’ll put together a tutorial for you.