1 PUDDLE LANE

pdf patterns for the savvy seamstress

How to Sew an Invisible Zip!

Who hates sewing in an invisible zip?

I have to admit I still sometimes do.  After years of sewing I have my days when I just don’t want to fiddle with a zip.  But I’ve devised a way where you can sew in an invisible zip with the least amount of frustration.

This tutorial has been put together with my new pattern – MiSS FOX DRESS.  It has a CB invisible zip.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • fabric
  • invisible zip
  • pins
  • thread
  • regular zipper foot
  • invisible zipper foot

Step 1 –

Open and close your invisible zip to make sure it’s works well and not faulty.

 

Step 2 –

Then press the zip by uncurling the teeth.  Make sure your iron isn’t too hot.

 
Step 3 –

Overlock/Serge/neaten your seam edges.

Step 4 –

With the right side of the zipper facing the right size of the fabric, pin the zip 1.5cm/1/2″ in from the seam edge.

Step 5 –

With your regular sewing foot stitch down the length of the zipper tape.  Line up the outside edge of the foot with the teeth of the zip.  This is to secure the zip in place.

Step 6 –

And finish at the end of the zipper toggle.

Step 7 –

Now change to your invisible zipper foot and starting from the top sew down the length of the tape as close to the zipper teeth.

Step 8 –

And finish as close to the zipper end as you can go.  Sew a back stitch to finish.  You have now finished one side of your invisible zip.  Now to the other side.

Step 9 –

Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the zip isn’t twisted and lies flat like the image above.

Step 10 –

With your regular sewing foot sew down the zipper tape.  Line up the inside of your zipper foot with the teeth of the zip.

 

Step 11 –

Finish this row of stitching near the zipper end.

Step 12 –

Change to your invisible zipper foot and sew the length of the zipper tape as close to the teeth.  Sew and backstitch to finish.

 

Step 13 –

Now you have finished sewing in your zip it’s time to finish off the seam.

Step 14 –

Turn the skirt to the wrong side and with your zipper foot sew the CB seam.  Start right next to the zipper end making sure you have the zipper tape pulled out of the way.  

 

Step 15 –

Your invisible zip is now complete.

 

Step 16 –

Press your zip and your seam and you’re done!  You won’t be able to see the zip.

 

 

 

I hope this has conquered your fear or has answered your question of sewing in an invisible zip.  Let me know in the comments below what other sewing procedures you have problems with and I’ll do my best to find a solution for you.

NEXT UP – How to Sew a Neck Facing to an Invisible Zip.

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

 

PATTERN HACK #1 – Miss Ruby Tuesday Top

  

This is the first in a series of Pattern Hacks for my new pattern – Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress – you’ll learn how to adapt your bodice to a Cross Over bodice.  

This feature is particularly good if you are breast feeding.  But it’s also a lovely feature to bring attention to the bodice area – if you have big boobs or small, it doesn’t matter.  It’s a beautiful feminine feature to add to your dress pattern.

The VERY first thing you need to do is to make sure you have done a Toile (mock up) of the MRT (Miss Ruby Tuesday) pattern to see that it fits perfectly on you.  This step is important because if your base pattern isn’t a good fit then the pattern hack won’t be either.  

A good place to start to get ideas for a particular style you’d like to create is to GOOGLE images.  For this particular lesson I googled – Cross Over Dresses – and I came up with this:

It’s amazing what you can find on Google. 

Today, I’m going to show you a T-Shirt pattern hack.  It’s going to be a versatile top pattern that in itself can then be hacked and turned into many different top styles.   You can make this into a cool summer top, a long sleeve winter top, and using Pattern Hack #1 you can turn it into a cross over top.

I have 2 more Miss Ruby Tuesday Pattern Hacks:

The possibilities are endless.  Is there nothing this pattern can’t do?

 
 
 
 
 

 Ok, now you get the idea of what’s possible I’ll show you how to turn the MRT pattern into a basic T-Shirt top.

First you’ll need your MRT pattern.

Step 1 –

Make sure you have tested the MRT pattern and the size you’ll be using is right for you.

Step 2 –

Transfer your bodice front pattern to paper and continue the CF line down by about 20″.

Step 3 –
For this tutorial I measured down 10″ from the waist for the length of my top.  You can make your top as long or short as you want.
Step 4 –
Now square a line out from the 10″ mark.  This will form the hem of the top.
Step 5 –
Measure your hip area of where the 10″ comes on your body.
Step 6 –
Divide that measurement by 4 and measure out on your pattern at the hemline and mark.
Step 7 –
Next, rule a straight line from the waist/side seam point down to the hem/side seam point.  This is the start of your new side seam.
Step 8 –
Measure out about 1/4 – 1/2″ at the waist and the hip and curve in your new side seam.  Also, mark up 1/4″ from the hem and curve in your new hemline.
 
Repeat Steps 2 – 8 for the back.
You now have the basic pattern that you can either sew up into a gorgeous sleeveless/sleeved top or you can start playing and changing it into many different tops – like the images show above.
  
If you’ve just stumbled onto my blog and want to know what the heck MRT (Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress) is, then click HERE.  And if you want to see what other talented ladies are doing with their MRT pattern then click HERE.

For other Pattern Hacks for the MRT dress – 

Pattern Hack #2
Pattern Hack #3

If you enjoyed this Pattern Hack tutorial or have other ideas for pattern hacks please let me know in the comments below.
 
Enjoy and Happy Sewing!
 
 

Pattern Hack #2 – Miss Ruby Tuesday Cross Over with Tucks

This request came from one of my lovely customers, Benita Button.  She wanted to make this style of dress without the waist band.
Pattern Hack #2


Original MiSS RUBY TUESDAY DRESS
 
So, what we have here that is different to the last pattern hack is that the tucks are coming from the waistline and not the side seams.  And also, the tuck are stitch down about 2″.
 
Ok, let’s get started.
Step 1 –
Trace your front piece so that you have both sides of the front.  


Step 2 –
Draw in your neckline.  You can use the V neck as a guide or draw your own.  You need to work out how far down the neck you want your Cross Over to be.  If you were happy with Pattern Hack #1……then do the same.
Step 3 –
Now cut out your new front and trace another front exactly as the new front ….. this will be your other front piece.
Step 4 –
Rule 3 lines – like you did with Pattern Hack #1.  These 3 lines will be draw from the waist to the armhole of the bodice. By doing this you are directing the tucks up to the bustline.
 
Follow the image below for the measurements.  Then measure up from the waist on each line 2″.  This will be the notch for the tuck.
Step 5 –
Now you will be doing a procedure called “Slash and Spread”. 
Start with the bottom line cut from the waist to almost the armhole point.  Tape the bottom part of the bodice and pivot the waistline part of the
bodice out 1 1/2″.
Step 6 –
Do this same procedure with the next 2 tucks.


Step 7 –
Once you have done this then fold the tucks out to the side seam and trace with a tracing wheel.  This will form the inside of the tuck.
Step 8 –
That’s it’s.  Your new front should look this the image below.  Make sure you have marked in where you need to sew the tucks and also the CF and grainline.
I hope you have great success with this pattern hack. 
I’d love to see what you’ve made so pop on over to my FB group – 1PL Sewing and Pattern Studio.
 
If you don’t have the MiSS RUBY TUESDAY pattern yet then I suggest you pop on over to my website and purchase it.  It’s a great little dress that will take you from Summer to Winter.
 
Thanks again Benita for your Pattern Hack suggestion.  If you love what you see please comment below.  Or you can suggest more Pattern Hacks that you’d like to see.
 
Happy Sewing!

Pattern Hack #3 – Miss Ruby Tuesday Cross Bodice


For todays lesson you’ll learn how to make a cross over bodice with and without side tucks.
Let’s Get Started

Style 1 –
Basic Cross Over Bodice….there are no tucks and the right and left side bodices pieces are the same.

 

Style 2 –

Cross Over Bodice With Side Tucks…….this is a bit more feminine and has a softer look.  You can see that the right front pattern piece has the side tucks but the left doesn’t, so you’ll need to do 2 patterns.

 
But before we get started I thought I’d show you some of the many different cross over styles you can do.  They can all be done on the Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern too!
 
 

Ok, now that I’ve got you excited with the possibilities for the Cross Over bodices we’ll get started.

What You’ll Need

  • Front Bodice Miss Ruby Tuesday Pattern
  • Extra paper to make your pattern alterations on
  • Tracing Wheel
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Tape Measure
  • Ruler
  • French Curve (optional)


1. Basic Cross Over Bodice

 
 
  • Start with your front bodice pattern placed on another piece of paper that’s folded in half.  The pattern needs to be big enough to accommodate the front bodice pattern.  We are going to be making a full front pattern as the shape of the Cross Over starts on one half of the bodice and extends to the other half of the bodice.
  • The Cross Over pattern starts off as being a V neck shape on half the pattern and then extended down to the other half of the pattern to the side seam.  You’ll notice that the bodice pattern already has a V neck option.  You can use that as your starting point if it’s the right depth for you.
  • First you need to measure down from the hollow in your neck to the point where you’d like your Cross Over to meet at the CF (Centre Front).  If the V point on the pattern is where you want your Cross Over to meet – great.  If not then mark in your new point and draw a line up to the shoulder/neck point…….similar to the V that’s already there.
  • Trace off the pattern with a tracing wheel and fold out.  You are then left with a complete front bodice with a V neckline.
 
  • Measure 10cm/4″ from the waist/side seam point up the side seam and mark.
  • Draw a slight curved line up to the V point at the CF.
  • You line will probably look something like the image above.
 
  • You’ll then need to redraw the V neckline so that the line then continues on smoothly down to the side seam.
  • Your front bodice will now look like the image above.
 
  • Fold your pattern in half again and, with your tracing wheel, trace your new neckline to the other side of the pattern.
  • Your pattern will now be looking like the image above.
 
 
 
 
  • Now trace out your new front cross over bodice.  Please don’t cut the original pattern up as you need this pattern to refer back to.  So take the time and always trace out new alterations to the pattern.
  • Mark on your pattern – CF line, what it is, how many to cut and what size.  Also, mark in the CF notch at the waist line.
  • As this first style has the same right and left front pattern you will be cutting one pair.  
 
2.  Cross Over Bodice with Side Tucks
 
  • You’ll be drawing 3 lines across your bodice.
 
 
  • The bottom line starts at 2.5cm/1″ above the waist on the right hand side side seam and goes over to the other side seam – about 1/3 of the way up the side seam.  Draw in the line.
 
  • The second line measure up 2.5cm/1″ on the right hand side    seam and then make a mark on the left hand side seam a1/3 of the way up.
 
  • The third line starts 2.5cm/1″ up from the last line on right hand side seam.  Make a mark at the corner of the side seam and armhole seam then rule the third line in.  
  • Now that you’ve got your 3 line ruled in it’s time to do a patternmaking method called – Slash and Spread.
 
  • Place your pattern on another piece of paper.
  • Cut into the bottom line – leaving the left side seam still connected. Tape the bottom part of the pattern to secure it in place.
  • Then spread the top part of the pattern pattern up 2.5cm/1″.
  • Now repeat this process with the middle line.  Tape in place to keep it secure.
  • Then finally do this again with the top line.  When you cut the line make sure the junction of the side seam and armhole are still connected.
  • Tape all the pattern to the paper underneath.
  • The tucks will be folding up when you make your Cross Over bodice.  So fold the tucks up one at a time and, with your tracing wheel, draw over the side seam to create the tuck.  Do this with the middle tuck then the top tuck.
  • Once you’ve done that and marked in the tuck notches your pattern will look something like the image above.
  • Make sure you have still got your CF & Straight Grain line and also the information of the pattern.  You’ll only be cutting one of this pattern so mark on this pattern ‘Right Side Up’ as that is how it’s to be cut out on your fabric.
  • You will now have your right hand side pattern piece with the tucks and the left hand side pattern piece without the tucks – which will be placed under the right hand side pattern piece.
 
 
  • Lastly, you’ll need to make your neck band.  Measure the complete neckline divide by .85.  This measurement will be your neckband length and the width will be 4cm/1 1/2″.
 

That’s it.  You’ve done your first pattern hack on the Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern.  Enjoy making your Cross Over Dress and I would love to see pics in the facebook group. 

 
If you like what you see but don’t have the pattern – you can find Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern HERE.
 
If you have any questions or hack suggestions please put them in the comments below or email me at 1puddlelane@gmail.com.
 
Happy Sewing!

Introducing MiSS RUBY TUESDAY DRESS – PDF pattern!

I’m happy to announce that my latest pattern – MiSS RUBY TUESDAY DRESS – is ready for release!

It feels like it’s been a long time in the making but a few months is really not that long!  I’m so proud of this pattern and it’s soooo soooo cool to wear and also you have the option to make a long sleeve for winter and it’s so easy to make from stretch knit fabric…….yep! that’s right – NO ZIPS to be seen.

During the testing process all my lovely testers were firing design ideas at me ….. they were so fantastic that the options for this dress just grew and grew.

Here’s what you’ll get in this pattern –

  • 1/2 circle skirt – 2 cutting options
  • gathered skirt option
  • peplum skirt option – 1/2 circle and gathered
  • V neck front and back
  • Scoop neck front and back
  • Boat neck
  • sleeveless
  • cap sleeve
  • short sleeve
  • elbow sleeve
  • 3/4 sleeve
  • long sleeve

 

 

Here’s what my lovely testers have been saying:

Alisha Annand – The MOST amazing pattern I’ve tried this year. Bucket loads of options to suit a variety of styles, shapes and sizes. Without a doubt my favourite pattern that will be my staple go to for everything.

Melanie Hall – A dress for all occasions! I love that the Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress can go from Summer to Winter and everywhere from a coffee date to the races, depending on how you style it. Plus it’s so quick & easy to sew that I think I’ll be needing one for every day of the week! A true wardrobe staple.

Amanda deSerres – I LoVE, LOVe, LOvE this dress. I have never felt more beautiful or gotten more attention from my husband. I think that this may be the most flattering dress I have ever made. Everything is perfect, from the sleeve length to the sexy back scoop to the length of the hem. I love that there are so many options and I can’t wait to make another. And it’s so fast and easy to make. You NEED this pattern… and lots and lots of fabric to make many, many dresses.

Lesley Fletcher – The most perfect dress. Dress it up, dress it down, dye it, paint it, appliqué it, have a print, a plain, this is your go to dress, fits a wide range of sizes and shapes. Pretty much the perfect dress. Do yourself a favour and go and buy the pattern …. right now!!!!!

Ginger Bell – The Miss Ruby Tuesday dress is an absolute staple for your wardrobe. With so many neckline and sleeve options, you can easily make one for every season and occasion. Such a versatile pattern. The pattern is very professional and well put together. With the clear directions given in the pattern, it makes this dress a quick and easy sew anyone can tackle.

Lauren Whitney – FABULOUS pattern! Easy to follow instructions, and super quick to whip up once the pattern is printed, put together, and cut out. So many different options on how to assemble it, and you can do so many different things with it! I can’t wait to whip up another one!

Phoebe Gordon – The dress is on trend, an easy sew, with lots of style options . It can be dressed up or down, colour blocking is a great alternative and it would look really great.The possibilities are endless.

 

And here are my lovely testers looking gorgeous in their MiSS RUBY TUESDAY DRESSES:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would you like to purchase?  Then click HERE.
As a little bonus and if you are in my 1PL Sewing and Pattern Studio fb group you will get a 20% discount (for 24hrs only).  Click HERE if you’d like to take advantage of the discount.
Also, please visit these shops to purchase your fabric.  They have a great selection and just the right fabric for this dress.

 

HAPPY SEWING!