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Across Chest/Across Back Adjustment

03/01/2017

Are the shoulders of your garment fall off your shoulders?

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I’ll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let’s get started!

Step 1 –

First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in. eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1″. Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2″ down from the neckline)

Step 2 –

Cut the line so that you’ve go 2 pieces.

Step 3 –

Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you’ve decided. For this tutorial it’s 2.5cm/1″.

Step 4 –

Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it’s time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 –

Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front. Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4″ down from the neckline).

Step 6 –

Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 –

Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done. Don’t forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice. But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up or sample) just to make sure you’ve got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

How to Sew A Neck Facing to an Invisible Zip

02/01/2017

I love sewing the back neck facing for an invisible zip. It’s so easy and so straight forward AND it looks professional! That’s because this is the way it’s done in the industry.

Step 1 –

Make sure you’ve installed your invisible zip as shown in my tutorial – HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE ZIP.

Step 2 –

Fold the back neck facing to the front making sure it’s right side of fabric together.

Step 3 –

Pin the edge of the facing to the edge of the CB seam. You’ll have the zip sandwiched in between.

Step 4 –

With your regular sewing foot sew down the facing edge.

Step 5 –

You’ll notice that there is more fabric on the back neck than the facing. This is because you are going to fold the CB seam toward yourself and to the left.

Step 6 –

Pin the neckline in place.

Step 7 –

Sew the neckline edge 6mm/1/4″.

Step 8 –

Cut off the zipper tape and cut into the corner of the seam.

Step 9 –

Turn the bodice to the right side and press.

That’s it! You’ve attached a neck facing on an invisible zip.

NOTE: This process can also be done if you have a skirt that’s got a waist facing.

Happy Sewing!

Bust Dart Adjustment

29/02/2016

A Bust Dart Adjustment will need to be done when the bust dart is either too high or too low.

Let’s get started!

Step 1 – Take a measurement (on your body) from your shoulder line down to your Bust Point (nipple). Transfer that measurement to your pattern and make a mark.

Step 2 – Redraw in your dart by lowering the dart down to your new Bust Point that you just marked. Make sure the bust dart point is in line with the old bust dart point and the dart ends are the same width apart as the old bust dart.

Step 3 – Now measure down 2cm/3/4″ below the Bust Point mark and mark the bust point for the waist dart. Redraw in your dart.

Step 4 – Place a piece of paper under the bodice and redraw your new side seam by folding the new dart up and then ruling in a new side seam starting at the side seam/armhole point and finishing at the side seam/waist point.

That’s it! You have now and perfectly positioned bust dart.

NOTE: If your bust dart is too low then just do this adjustment in reverse.

Happy Sewing!

Shoulder Adjustment

29/02/2016

A Shoulder Adjustment usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve. It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won’t sit very well.

If you look at the image below you’ll see the following:

the shoulder seam sits to the back
the shoulder point site more to the front
and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric at the back of the sleeve

So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.

Ok, so let’s get started.

Step 1 –

After you’ve done your fitting and you’ve worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you’ll need to transfer that amount to the pattern – in the image above we’ll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1″.

Step 2 –

Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line – in this case it’s 2.5cm/1″.

Step 3 –

Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don’t forget to add a 1cm/3/8″ seam allowance to the front shoulder line.

Step 4 –

Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line – BUT make sure you come down 1cm. This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.

Step 5 –

Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.

Step 6 –

Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.

Step 7 –

Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder – in this case it’s 2.5cm/1″.

Step 8 –

Redraw the sleeve head.

That’s it! You’ve now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.

Happy Sewing!

Doing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)

15/02/2016

What the heck is an FBA, I hear you say?

Well, today I’m going to teach you what it is and how to do it.

What is an FBA?

FBA – short for Full Bust Adjustment – is an adjustment done to the front bodice pattern so that your bodice will fit around your boobs without pulling, creeping, flattening your boobs when you wear your bodice/dress.

It’s a way of adding cm’s/inches to your pattern – just at the front where you need it and not at the back where you don’t need it.

And an FBA is done to a big bust. Most patterns are made for a B-C cup so if you are a D, E, F, G etc. you’ll need to do an FBA to your pattern.

How do you do an FBA?

For this tutorial I’ve chosen my MiSS FOX DRESS pattern. It has a bodice and skirt and the bodice is made for a C cup. So if you are over a C cup then you’ll need to do an FBA.

Let’s get started:

Step 1 –

You’ll need to take an Upper Bust Measurement (B) and Full Bust Measurement (A). The UBM will go around you above your bust and up under your armholes. The FBM – you’ll measure around the fullest part of your bust.

Step 2 –

Let’s say your UBM (B) is 40″ and your FBM (A) is 44″. That is a difference of 4″. So, you’ll need to add 4″ to your front bodice pattern.

Step 3 –

Find the size you’ll be starting with by using your UBM which is 40″.

Step 4 –

The above image shows that Size 14/10 has a bust of 40″. So you’ll be using Size 14 and not a Size 18…..that is good news!

Step 5 –

Trace out your Size 14 pattern and let’s begin the FBA.

Step 6 –

Rule a line – parallel to the CF (Centre Front) – that goes from the shoulder to the waist through the waist bust dart point.

Step 7 –

Rule a line from your first line out to the middle of the bust dart through the side bust dart point.

Step 8 –

Now rule a line from the bust dart point up to the armhole nick.

Step 9 –

Finally rule a line at a 90 degree angle to the CF, half way between the waist bust dart point and waist line.

Step 10 –

Ok, now you’ve got your lines ruled up you’ll now be cutting these lines. Note: you won’t be needing the line from the shoulder to the bust point.

Step 11 –

Place some extra paper under your pattern.

Now cut the line from the waist to the bust point and out to the armhole – don’t cut right to the end. Leave about .5cm attached.
Now cut the line of the bust dart but don’t cut right through. Leave about .5cm attached.
Keep the CF stationary and open the waist to armhole line out the measurement you need. In this case the UBM is 40″ and the FBM is 44″. So that’s a difference of 4″. As you only need to add the 4″ to the front and the pattern piece is half of the whole front you would divide the 4″ by 2 which will give you 2″. So you’ll need to spread the pattern pieces 2″. That will then open out the side bust dart.

Step 12 –

Lastly, cut the line from the CF to the waist bust dart and move it down so that the bottom edges are level.

Step 13 –

To Redraw the Darts – at the waist bust dart point find the half way point. In this case it’s 2.5cm/1″. Mark a dot and then draw in the new dart from the waist up to the dart point and then down to the waist. Sticky tape or glue pattern pieces in place.

Step 14 –

To Redraw the Side Bust Dart, you’ll need to do a measurement from your shoulder to nipple to find out where you need to start your dart from.

So take that measurement and rule a line down from the shoulder to the bust point parallel to the CF. Mark a dot for the bust point measurement. This dot should be in line with the dot your marked for the waist bust dart.
Now rule a line out at a 90 degree angle to approx. where the side bust dart point begins and mark a dot.
Rule a line from the side seam notch of the dart to the dot at the bust and then back out again to other side seam notch of the dart.

Step 15 –

All you need to do now is true up the waist and side bust darts. So, fold the waist dart toward the CF and redraw the waist line with a tracing wheel and fold your side bust dart up and redraw the side seam with a tracing wheel.

Tadah! You’ve now done an FBA to your bodice pattern. Well done!

I hope this has answered all your questions regarding an FBA. But, if you have questions pop over to my fb group and get more help.

Till next time – Happy Sewing!