1 PUDDLE LANE

pdf patterns for the savvy seamstress

MRT – Hoodie, Cowl Collar & No Waist Seam Hack

The Miss Ruby Tuesday dress has been my all time favourite pattern and a best seller and I’ve done a few hack tutorials before – CLICK HERE – and I’d love to do another hack tutorial for you again.

A beautiful customer of mine, Christina, made the hoodie hack and shared it in my sewing group and it looks fantastic.

Below are the details on how to alter the size medium MRT pattern.  If you are not a medium you can try alter it to your measurements or you can wait till I bring out the new Add-On pattern that will have a cowl neck option.

 

HOODIE HACK PATTERN

Make the Hoodie pattern as shown above.  Cut our 2 pair.  It can be cut in the same fabric or a contrast fabric.

Sewing Instructions

Step 1:  With right sides together pin and sew the CB of the hoodie together 1cm.

Step 2:  With right sides together pin and sew the front of the hoodie together 1cm.  Top stitch the front of the hoodie on right side of the fabric 6mm (1/4″) in from the edge..

Step 3:  With right sides together pin the CB of the hoodie to the CB of the bodice.  Pin the shoulder seams to the shoulder notch of the hoodie.  Overlap the CF of the hoodie and pin to the CF of the bodice.  Sew a 1cm seam and overlock.  Top stitch on the right side of the bodice 6mm (1/4″) from the neck seam making sure you catch the seam underneath.

COWL COLLAR HACK

 

The Cowl Collar pattern above is for the high front and back neckline.  You can do a Cowl Collar for the high back, scoop front and vice versa you just need to alter the front or back neckline measurement on the Cowl Collar pattern to match.  This pattern is for size medium but I will be releasing an Add-On pack for the Cowl Collars and Hoodie pattern soon.

Sewing Instructions

Step 1:  Sew the CB seam with 1cm seam allowance.  Press seam open.

Step 2:  Hem the outside edge of the collar.  You can do a rolled hem or double turn over hem.

Step 3:  Make sure you have marked the CF and shoulder notches on the collar.

Step 4:  With right side of collar pin the CF’s, shoulders and CB’s to the WRONG side of the bodice.  Sew a 1cm seam.  Overlock seam optional.  

NO WAIST SEAM MRT HACK

  • You can do the following alterations to any size.

Front Dress

Step 1:  Line up the front bodice and skirt making sure the side seam peak meets up with the waist of the bodice.  Tape the patterns to a large piece of paper.

Step 2:  Connect the bodice and skirt by ruling a line down the side seam and then curve out to the skirt side seam down to the hem.

 


Step 3:  Mark the CF, grain line, size and cutting instructions & notches.  Your front MRT dress hack is now complete.

BACK DRESS

Step 1:  Follow Steps 1 and 2 of the Front Dress.

 

Step 2:  Now measure out 1cm at the back neck and rule down to nothing at the waist.  Measure out 1 cm at the hem CB and rule up to nothing at the waist.  This is now your CB seam.

WHY HAVE A CB SEAM?

This is always a good idea to shape the back into your waist and it is also easy to do a Sway Back Adjustment on the pattern.

Step 3:  Mark your grain line, size, cutting instructions and notches.  Your back MRT dress hack is complete.

 

I hope you enjoyed this hack.  Don’t worry if you can’t follow it as I’ll be bringing out an Hoodie & Cowl Collar Hack really soon.

 

Happy Sewing.

 

 

Miss Fox Dress

My favourite style of dress is the Miss Fox Dress.   It’s flattering to the figure and has a beautiful 1/2 circle skater skirt.  It can also be teamed with the Miss Fox Skirt for a pleated skirt.

It can be made from beautiful quilting cottons, lawn, voile, silk dupion, satin, cotton sateen and for that special night out……lace or chiffon.

Garment Features:

  • Fitted lined or faced bodice
  • Sleeveless, Cap, Short Sleeves
  • 1/2 circle skater skirt
  • Centre Back invisible zip (super easy to install)

Suitable Fabrics:

  • Cotton
  • Quilting Cotton
  • Lawn
  • Voile
  • Cotton Sateen
  • Dupion Silk
  • Lace
  • Chiffon

Pattern Features:

  • Illustrated Instruction Booklet
  • Trimless Pattern (you don’t need to trim before taping together)
  • Pattern Layers (you can print just the size you want)
  • A4, AO, US Layout

Body and Garment Measurements:

Click on Measurement Chart and How to Measure Yourself Chart to download the files to help you with your logging your measurements.

Fabric Requirements:

Before you sew your dress it is wise to get some cheap fabric and make a Toile (pronounced Twarl – a sample or mockup) of the dress first.  Get the fit right and you won’t waste your good fabric.  You can use a cheap Calico or cheap Cotton.


Testers Photos

Each pattern I make has thoroughly been tested by a good of gorgeous and talented testers who give up their time to help me bring this beautiful pattern to you.  Here’s what they’ve made.

Happy Sewing!

 

Miss Stella Cardi

The MiSS STELLA CARDi.

It’s a beautiful, comfy cardi for the cooler months and also a sleeveless option for the warmer months.

Cardi features:

  • Long sleeve & sleeveless options
  • 3 Lengths
  • For Knit fabrics only
  • Sizes 6 – 20 AU/2 – 16 US

Skill Level:

  • Advanced Beginner.  The cardi is easy to sew but you’ll need some knowledge of sewing knits.

Pattern Features:

  • Trimless patterns A4 & US Letter.  That means you don’t need to trim your pages anymore.  More time to sew!
  • Layers Option.  You can print out only the size you want.

 

Testers Photos

 

 

Happy Sewing!

 

MISS RUBY TUESDAY – Add On

This has been a long time in the making and I’m so proud of the new styles created to add to the already popular, Miss Ruby Tuesday Pattern.

You are going to love it!!!  If you love the Miss Ruby Tuesday, (known as MRT to the diehards), you are going to love all the additions created to go with it.

All going well, the pattern will be released on Wednesday, 15th March at 6pm Qld Australia time (AEST).  Of course there will be a discount but only if you are in my pattern group on facebook……1PL-Sewing and Pattern Group.  That’s where you’ll find the code on Wednesday.

Here’s What To Expect

As there were so many styles and still more in the pipeline, I had to separate them into two bundles – a SKIRT BUNDLE and a BODICE BUNDLE.  That way if you only want SKIRTS you can buy that and vice versa.  If you want both you can buy the bundle at a special price AND if you want all three – original MRT, Skirt and Bodice – there is a bundle for that too.

Bodice Bundle

The Bodice Bundle features:

  • Style A – Cross Over
  • Style B – Cross Over with Side Tucks
  • Style C – With Waistband and Optional Ties
  • Style C – Cross Over with Waistband and Optional Ties
  • Style D – Cross Over with Waist Tucks

Skirt Bundle

The Skirt Bundle features:

  • Style A – Straight Skirt
  • Style A – Straight Skirt with Drape Overlay (this goes great with Style D bodice.
  • Style B – A-Line Skirt – Short and Maxi Length
  • Style C – Hi-Lo Skirt – Peplum and Short Length
  • Style D – Pleated Skirt

 

Fabric Meterage

It’s important to note that this is just an Add-On pattern and you’ll need to use the original MRT pattern for certain pattern pieces.  This is especially important for the Bodice Bundle.

So, the meterages are just for the Style itself.  You’ll need to see which style of Bodice or Skirt you want in the Layout section and see if you can fit the bodice pieces in there.  Otherwise, just add the two style meterages  together to get the amount you need to buy for that style.

Bodice

Skirt

Testers

 

Happy Sewing!

 

 

Sleeve Width Adjustment

Is your sleeve fitting too tight around your arm?

Then you’ll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I’ll be showing you how to add extra cm’s to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let’s get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement.  This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit.  Then you’ll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side.  Write these 2 measurements down.

 

Step 1 –

Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve.   This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 –

Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).
In this case Brookes’ arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 – 32.5 = 3.5.  You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm.

Step 3 –

All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4″ to give it a better curve (green line).  Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done.  But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl – meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check the fit.

I hope this has helped you with your Sleeve Width Adjustment.    But, if you have questions pop over to my fb group and get more help.
 
Till next time – Happy Sewing!